Thursday, January 25, 2007

The most magical place in the world isn't Disney


It just so happened that our friends Galen and Hyde were in Japan at the same time we were, so we all met up in Tokyo after we returned from Kyoto and Nara. On our list of things to see was the Ghibli Museum - a place based on the work of Animator Hayao Miyazaki and his company, Studio Ghibli.



By far, this is one of the most magical places I've ever visited. Disney and other glitzy theme parks can rot. Studio Ghibli managed to build this museum with the same sense of wistful and hopeful childhood nostalgia that make Miyazaki's movies so special. It's uncanny. Aside from it's obvious appeal to children and adults (or rather, the child within adults) it is a masterpiece of emotive architecture and interior design. It was definitely a highlight of my trip. Unfortunately, photography is not allowed at the museum except in a few spots.


There is a roof garden that has a full-size metal statue of the robot from "Castle in the Sky".

 
Myself, Galen, and Hyde in front of the "ticket booth" outside the museum that's manned by Totoro from "My Neighbor Totoro". In my hand is a pile of Clementine rinds. I couldn't find a place to ditch them, as garbage cans are scarce on Japanese streets.

Although I could not take pictures, I found another site by a person who did (whether or not it was sanctioned by the museum). I highly recommend visiting this person's site to see the images - www.tautoz.com/ghiblimuseum/


After the museum, we all had dinner and got dessert at a fancy place in Ginza that Momo's father used to take her to. It was really fancy; the walls were dark stained wood with victorian tea room furniture. On the table is chocolate chiffon cake that had what appeared to be silver flakes. Very fancy.

Monday, January 22, 2007

After Kyoto, Nara.

After our time in Kyoto, Momo and I took the train to Nara, one of the ancient capitals of Japan. We were there to see some important temples and the quasi-domesticated deer that roam the parks and temples there.




Some of the aforementioned deer. Here's a sobering note I found on a Nara travel website:

Stay safe
The deer in Nara park tend to be friendly and perhaps overly eager to eat shika-senbei cookies from the hands of tourists, but you should avoid deer which have antlers. They can be aggressive and their antlers can injure you.




This is Todaiji Temple, the largest wooden structure in the world (though this fact is a contentious one) and home to Japan's largest Buddha (an uncontested fact). In person, it's big.


REALLY big.


The entrance to Todaiji.


The Buddha inside. The photograph doesn't do it justice. Some quick stats:
The size of the Buddha
  • Height : 14.98 meters (49 feet)
  • Face : 5.33 meters (17.5 feet)
  • Eyes : 1.02 meters (3 feet)
  • Nose : 0.5 meters (1.6 feet)
  • Ears : 2.54 meters (8 feet)
  • Weight : 500 metric tonnes (1,102,311 pounds)

That's one big buddha.

Photo from Handbook on Viewing Buddhist Statues, Ishii, Ayako (Ikeda, 1983). Amazon


Burning incense at the entrance to Todaiji. You drop 100 yen (80 cents) in the box and light a stick, and then waft the smoke on whatever part of you that needs help. I tried to get it around my head.




The definition of juxtaposition. The computers are for having some sort of metal piece engraved with your name or some such.


Another part of the temple complex.


Notice anything different?


Magic noodles.


At Mr. Donut in Nara.


Our sad hotel room in Nara.


Like an airplane bathroom with a shower.



The complimentary yukatas were nice, however.


Waiting near Yakushiji Temple for the bus to take us to a Horyuji Temple on the outskirts of Nara.


At Horyuji Temple.




These guardians are STACKED! Look at those abs!






Cute dog.


Due to the time of year, there were a lot of women in Kimonos walking around. This one has a modern design.


Panoramic shot of Horyuji Temple.


Audio of Monks chanting at Horyuji temple. Normally, visitors to the temple would not get to experience this; an exception was made due to the New Year holiday. I actually didn't see the monks myself - there was a sizeable crowd in the hallway where the opening to the room was and I didn't bother pushing through to see. I stood in front of the paper sliding door (shijo) to the room where the monks had left their sandals and captured this.


The train station at Osaka on the way back to Tokyo. This is January 3rd. Since New Year's is probably the biggest holiday in Japan, and the holiday that most people return home for, this is one of the busiest travel days of the year; It is equivalent to the Sunday after Thanksgiving in the states, except that trans are the primary means of travel. The parallels even translate into media coverage - there are just as many stories about crowded trains on Japanese news as there are about crowded highways on US news stations around Thanksgiving.

Given the choice, I'll take crowded trains.

Wednesday, January 17, 2007

Forgotten Kyoto.

Here are some images from our last day in Kyoto which I forgot to post.


At Kenninji Temple.






This is a modern dragon mural on the ceiling of one of the temples in Kenninji.


In the Gion neighborhood, where Geisha girls STILL work. This was their day off, though.

While in Kyoto, we rented a very traditional Kyoto house - paper screens, tatami mats, futons, and very little insulation.

Finally! New Pictures and video

Sorry for the lack of updating. I pretty much gave up trying to process and post for the rest of our trip. Now we're back home and I've got time. Scroll down to the bottom of the "Temples and Shrines" post and you'll find a bunch more pictures from Kyoto.

Friday, January 5, 2007

Temples and Shrines

New stuff added from Kyoto! Scroll down!


Waiting for the train in Kyoto.




On the train. It's a "Shinkansen", one of the bullet trains. Not the fastest one, but still pretty fast. Feels like an airplane.




A hastily acquired breakfast from the station.


Mt. Fuji from the train.


Again.


Waiting for the key to our place in Kyoto.


At a local noodle shop in Kyoto.




On the deck a Kyomizu temple.


Having my Fortune Read at a Kiyomizu Temple in Kyoto.


Tying my fortune to the fortune rack at Kyomizu.


More Kyomizu.


Cafe down the hill from Kyomizu.


This is a spot at the temple where three streams of water pour down from overhead. Your supposed to take a cup on a long stick and fill the cup to drink.


From below.


Walking back to the entrance of Kyomizu.


Snacks outside Kyomizu.


The pagoda at Kyomizu.


Visiting the graveyard of a friend.








On bikes in Kyoto outside of the graveyard where we visited the grave of a friend.


In Kyoto somewhere.


Dinner at a local Okonomiyaki (Japanese Pancake) place. We were the only people there who didn't know everyone else.










Our desert was a Kyoto specialty - red bean paste in rice flower creations - very beautiful. It's soft and sweet.


We picked it up from a store and ate at the house we rented there.








At Kozanji Temple.










Kozanji was way up in the hills of Kyoto. To get there we passed adorable hill neighborhoods. It was incredibly quiet.




A view of the hills outside Kyoto from the bus.


at a temple.


At one of the temples, I'm not sure which one.


Lunch at a temple. Yudofu - tofu and vegetables in broth.





BIG goldfish/carp in the pond at the temple.


In front of the Golden Pavillion. Real gold.


Golden Pavillion again.




Momo ringing a huge bell on the hill on New Years at Honenin temple in Kyoto. This is after we ate celebratory soba noodles with the congregation.


New Years food vendors outside of a shrine. Not unlike a state fair or street festival.




Food vendors outside of a Shrine.






Brushes and ink to write you wishes on wood to hang at the shrine.


Japanese boy scouts man a station to reconnect lost kids with parents.


More shrine.


On bikes in Kyoto.




Walking up to Fushimi Inari shrine. We heard on the news that 1 Million people visited the shrine ON THIS DAY ALONE.


A portion of that million.


In the streets outside of the Fushimi Inari Shrine.


Outside the shrine as well, but you see these people all over Japan. They are Christians who proselytize by way of taped recordings through loudspeakers at the top of yellow banners.




The Fushimi Inari shrine is famous for its multitude of orange gates. I believe there's over a thousand of them. You walk through them like tunnels as they wrap around the mountain, with various stops in between. It's like an amusement park.








You can buy pieces of wood in the shape of a fox's head (foxes guard shrines and are the symbol of this particular shrine) and write your wish for the year on them. They're then hung at the shrine, possibly to be burned later for good luck.


Throw some coins into the box, ring the bell (attached to the long ribbon) and clap to wake up the god in the shrine.


Water to wash your hands and drink to purify the self before entering the gates.


The fox statues guard the gates. The foxes are called "kitsune", which is a kind of tofu. People are supposed to leave offerings of the sweet, fried tofu for the foxes or they will appear in the form of a beautiful woman and trick people.


Little gates.


We gave up after a few gate tunnels (they wind all over the mountain, probably for a couple of miles) and took this road back to the entrance.


Eating lunch by the river.




Birds on the river.